Jennifer Harris is an Honorary Research Fellow at the University of Manchester, UK. Now retired, she was Deputy Director at the Whitworth Art Gallery, holding one of the finest collections of historical and contemporary textiles in the UK. Harris has researched and published in the fields of fashion, textiles, and avant-garde craft for more than thirty years. Her book 5000 Years of Textiles, first published in 1993 and reprinted several times, continues to be a standard text in the field.

Acknowledgments xi
List of Figures xiii
Series Editor's Preface xvii
Notes on Contributors xix
General Introduction 1
Part I Histories and Frameworks 7
1 Unraveling the Fabric of the Past: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Archaeological Textiles 11
Margarita Gleba
2 Textile Cultures in the Early Modern World 27
Robert S. DuPlessis
3 Rewriting Textile Culture with Woven Words: "Oro es tu hilar" by Chilean Poet Cecilia Vicuña 45
Meredith G. Clark
4 Branding Tradition: The Commercialization of Hand Embroidery in Gujarat 61
Eiluned Edwards
5 "The Real Thing": How Object Analysis Unlocks Meaning and Enriches Documentary Evidence 83
Adrienne D. Hood
Part II Textiles, Trade, and Global Culture 105
6 Reading Textiles: Transmission and Technology of Silk Road Textiles in the First Millennium 109
Angela Sheng
7 West Africa: Technology, Tradition, and Lurex Revisited 127
John Picton
8 Textiles of Eastern and Southern Africa 145
Chris Spring
9 Remaking Tradition in Art and Design in Pakistan 165
Naazish Ata-Ullah, Zeb Bilal and Shehnaz Ismail
Part III The Social Fabric: The Politics and Poetics of Cloth 181
10 Fabricating Identity: Textiles in the Pacific 187
Paul Sharrad
11 Stitching (in) Trauma: Constructing Identity in Thread Behind Prison Bars 201
Maureen Daly Goggin
12 Creative Tensions: Making (It), Unmaking, and Making Do in Textiles Informed by Feminism 219
Alexandra Kokoli
13 Spinning a Yarn of One's Own 235
Christine Checinska
14 Pictures and Polemics: Muslim Veiling Practices in Contemporary Art 257
Valerie Behiery
15 The Subversive Stitch Revisited 275
Lisa Vinebaum
Part IV Conceptual Boundaries 299
16 Modernism's Roots in the Domestic, Decorative, and Vernacular Through Textiles 303
Virginia Gardner Troy
17 Material Strategies: Cloth and Textile Metaphors in Modern and Contemporary Art 317
Jennifer Harris
18 Pragmatics of Attachment and Detachment: A Constellatory Reinscription of Textile 333
Maxine Bristow
19 Japanese Textile Culture: The Example of Junichi Arai and Five Other Creators 353
Akiko Moriyama
20 Stories of Innovation: Fabrication in Africa and Beyond 371
Atta Kwami
Part V Reception and Representation 391
21 Around the World in 80 Biennials: Curating Lausanne, Hangzhou, Kaunas 395
Janis Jefferies and Lee Weinberg
22 Indigenous Textiles of North America: A Century of Exhibitions 417
Elizabeth Kalbfleisch and Janet Catherine Berlo
23 Valorizing Gee's Bend Quilts: Affinity, Adjacency, and the Modern Eye 435
Karin E. Peterson and Leisa Rundquist
24 Performing the Political in Oceanian Textile Cultures: Collectivity, Syncretism, and Globalization 459
Khadija von Zinnenburg Carroll
Index 475