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The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world.
With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation.
Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

Maude Bass-Krueger is a professor in the department of Art History, Theatre, and Music Studies at the University of Ghent, Belgium.
Hayley Edwards-Dujardin is an independent scholar and editor based in Paris, France.
Sophie Kurkdjian is an assistant professor at the American University of Paris, France.

Lists of Figures
List of Contributors
Acknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian
Notes on Translation
Timeline
Introduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian

I. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry

1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917
Mary Lynn Stewart

2: Boué Sours, "Compelled by the War"
Waleria Dorogova
3: "Gladdening the hearts of warriors:" the relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in World War I
Georgina Ripley

4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and Future
Birgit Haase

5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of Norine
Nele Bernheim
II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries
6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I Paris
Emily Brayshaw
7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War I
Sara Hume
8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the War
Marguerite Coppens

9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World War
Marta Kargól

10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti
Margherita Rosina

III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks
11: "Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:" a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919
Amy de la Haye

12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female Workwear
Jérémie Brucker

13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation's Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916
Guillaume de Syon

14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during the
First World War in France
Manuel Charpy
IV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender

15: The Gentleman Turned "Enemy:" Men's Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918
Zsolt Mészáros

16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of War
Burcu Dogramaci
17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a "Moda Italiana," 1914-1918
Enrica Morini

18: Le Flambeau's Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity?
Nigel Lezama

19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915
Andréa Kollnitz
Index